Minimising this large ecological footprint of the apparel sector requires a fundamental rethinking of our approach to clothing and fashion. The various facets of the circular economy offer options; on one hand, to choose for eco-friendly clothing, and on the other, to allow individuals to stay stylish and socially accepted
Amidst a world grappling with multiple environmental crisis — from global warming and toxic waste to air pollution and biodiversity loss — many of us remain unaware of how our clothing and fashion choices contribute to these crises.
An estimated 10 per cent of global carbon emissions come from textile industry, surpassing those from international aviation and maritime shipping combined. The textile industry also ranks third in water degradation.
Alarmingly, garment waste is India’s third largest municipal waste source, taking up to 100 years to decompose. The entire cycle of clothing production, consumption and disposal leaves a substantial ecological footprint.
Minimising this large ecological footprint of the apparel sector requires a fundamental rethinking of our approach to clothing and fashion. How often do we pause to take stock of the garments adoring our closets? If we were to tally up our clothing possessions, the sheer number might be astonishing; and might also reveal a striking contradiction between our needs and our buying habits.
In India, numerous occasions from cultural celebrations to personal milestones like weddings and birthdays, each demand their own stylish splendour.
In the era of consumerism and fast fashion, repeating outfits across multiple events can feel like a social transgression, compelling us to constantly acquire new attire.
This relentless cycle of accumulation not only leads to unused garments cluttering our cupboard, but also contributes significantly to ecological footprint.
Reuse Recycle Reduce
The various facets of the circular economy offer options, on one hand, to choose for eco-friendly clothing, and on the other, to allow individuals to stay stylish and socially accepted while minimising the need to own numerous clothes.
Circular fashion principles like sorting, grading, recycling, and redesigning reduce ecological footprint by minimising waste.
In recycling, fibres extracted from used textiles as also polyester from plastic bottles, are being repurposed to create new fabrics. Major global brands, including those operating in India, are increasingly incorporating recycled fibres into their production processes, driven by both environmental concerns and consumer demand for sustainable products. Marks & Spencer, for example, is committed to sustainability in its clothing production.
The brand ensures that the cotton used in its garments is either organic or sourced from recycled materials. Furthermore, it has set a goal to use only recycled polyester by 2025.
Similarly, the H&M Group has made significant strides in integrating recycled materials into its products. In 2023, 25 per cent of the materials used were recycled, with a target to increase this to 50 per cent by 2030.
To further enhance sustainability efforts and transparency, the Higg Index, developed by the Sustainable Clothing Alliance (SCA) in the United States, offers an online self-assessment tool to provide valuable insights to promote responsible practices in the fashion industry.
In another approach to recycling, discarded clothing and factory waste from garment production are salvaged and repurposed through cutting, reassembling, or refurbishment to create new garments.
Patchwork denim stands out as a prime example of this refurbished product category.
Although refurbished, remanufactured, and redesigned garments crafted from discarded materials cater to high-end clientele in the global North markets, their popularity remains relatively limited in India.
The most critical yet underexplored facet of circularity with tangible potential to advance environmental sustainability in India is rental fashion.
While informal clothes exchanges among friends and relatives have long been part of Indian culture, formalised clothing rental services offer a more structured and scalable approach.
These services allow individuals to rent garments for a set duration and also contributes their own pieces for others to use. Renting high-end Indian traditional attires like wedding sarees or lehengas for women and sherwani or suit for men can be particularly popular.
It underscores the potential for innovative solutions to address sustainability concerns while still enables individuals to access a variety of outfits without the need for repeated use, avoid overspend their money and overuse of global precious resources.
The global trends
According to Global Data, the global clothing rental market reached a value of US$ 6.2 billion in 2023, with North America leading as the largest market, followed by Europe and Asia.
By Rotation, a UK-based peer-to-peer fashion rental mobile app, encourages members to rent clothes they need and lend the ones they use occasionally.
Since its launch in 2019, the app has amassed over 150,000 users. Ralph Lauren, the renowned fashion designer from New York City, ventured into the rental market by introducing a subscription service in the US in 2021, with plans starting at US$125 per month.
This market is projected to grow to US$ 4.4. billion by 2028. Meanwhile, the Indian online apparel rental market is estimated to be worth US$ 3-4 billion, indicating significant potential for further growth and expansion.
Although there is no available data, anecdotal evidence suggests that the practice of renting clothes, especially for wedding, is most prevalent in the state of Gujarat.
A survey conducted by Rent the Runway found that rented clothes resulted in a 24 per cent reduction in energy use, a 6 per cent decrease in water use, and a 3 per cent reduction in CO2 emissions compared to retail purchased clothes.
However, the advantages of clothing rental exten beyond environmental conservation. By allowing multiple users to access and enjoy fast fashion garments, rental services promote equitable consumption, with rental fees typically ranging from 10-15 per cent of the item’s original costs. Despite these potential benefits, the widespread adoption of clothing rental faces challenges, particularly regarding hygiene standards and logistical issues such as dry cleaning and delivery. Moreover, the seasonal nature of demand, with peaks during wedding seasons, presents a unique challenge for service providers, especially in countries like India.
Conclusion
In conclusion, the emergence of apparel rental services presents a captivating opportunity to merge style, social status with ecological sustainability, demonstrating that mindful consumption can coexist with fashion-forward choices. Ultimately, embracing clothing rental and other circular fashion practices can not only reduce waste and minimise resource consumption but also inspire a broader shift toward more sustainable lifestyles.
Through collective action of stakeholders, including producers, consumers, and the broader apparel industry, conscious choices can pave way for a future where style and sustainability seamlessly coexist, leading to an environmentally responsible tomorrow.
The writer is Delhi-based Environmental Social Scientist. She served as an Assistant Professor at Ambedkar University Delhi and holds a PhD from the Sustainable Consumption Institute at the University of Manchester, UK