As one entered the Varq, Taj Mahal Hotel, a sense of overwhelm was all pervasive. City’s selective foodies in high spirits, holding champagne, were all set for the big day. What added to the joy was the presence of eminent guests like Anjolie Ela Menon, a great foodie herself. It was Varq’s fifth birthday celebration.
The restaurant is known for its unique blend of fine dining and art. Star chef of Taj, Hemant Oberoi personally took charge of kitchen to host the guests. Known for his exceptional culinary skills, Hemant has been instrumental in the making of Varq since it was established and has also now crafted its new menu. Menon, who is also writing a book on her own recipes, too unveiled the menu amid fanfare. It was five years back when she first painted the plain walls of the restaurant. She has now restored her old murals. “When I began to climb on the ladders to paint, girls who were assisting me, asked if I really wanted to do it. I told them this place is really special as it was five years back. The chef is very particular of his work, so am I,” said the artist. Additional modern artworks compliment the restaurant in the form of oil paintings, carvings, antiques and sculptures.
Much to the delight of food aficionados, chef Hemant cut the special gulbjamun and cheese cake, which he especially prepared. Some of the new dishes introduced by the chef were green chilli tulsi and pinenut fish, kolo kithe, sunehari nalli and masala cord on rice. The chef said, “The concept was in my mind for some 12 years. After Masala Art and Club, I was like, what next! Masala was all about authentic cuisines of the locations — Delhi, Mumbai or Bengaluru. I was looking for a new place where I can serve authentic cuisines but in contemporary manner. I did many experiments and finally Varq happened.” Visually spectacular in every way, Varq turned out to be a 80 seater elegant restaurant, including a private dining room for 14. It is located at the lower lobby level overlooking the hotel’s beautifully manicured gardens.
As far as the menu goes, the chef literally stretched his limits for each dish. For instance, he went to Kerala and had curry leaf crab. On the way back on flight, he thought hard on how to present the stuff in contemporary manner. “I did it between crispy rotis, various pastry sheets, but I couldn’t get the desired taste. Then I wrapped it around pastry sheet. But that too didn’t work. Since I wanted Indian flavours, I mixed it with ajwain with turmeric on top. I also introduced tandoori shrimp on top of it. One dish took eight months to get into final shape,” he informed.
Hemant’s funda is simple. He gives equal weightage to his food. Which is why every dish served to us was also a visual delight. “Food must look good and it must taste good. looks matter 50 per cent. Also, wherever I go, I don’t forget my roots. If you forget the roots, roots will forget you one day. I can be at any corner of India, I will only use our spices and our recipes,” he said.