Anupama Dayal drew inspiration from the monuments and history of Delhi. Kiran Uttam Ghosh took notes from the Saigon and Vietnam of the 20th century to create designs for the Autumn/Winter show. They are not the only ones, this fashion week we will see more designers presenting city-inspired collections
In the past she has presented the collection inspired from the colours and culture of Jaisalmer. She also mentioned that one of her last collections was based on Egypt. And this time Anupama Dayal draws inspiration from her homeland — Delhi. The designer’s collection to be showcased at the forthcoming Wills India Fashion Week (WIFW) is titledIshq-e-Dilli. Anupama took a cue from the Islamic art and Mughal traditions and also referred the Sultanate, lodhis and others to come up with the designs that are ideal “for destination weddings.” Anupama has used a lot of colour and says that the reason she chose Delhi was because “today people in other cities react differently when you mention them that you are a Delhiite. They only think that it is tough to stay here and forget that Indian heritage and history can be found in plenty here. I have been staying in the city and I want to present the culture and heritage that we are known for.”
There are sharara inspired trousers, lehenga inspired skirts, jamas and angarakhaswhich can be worn by women across the world as dresses. “My collection is for the women who is free-spirited and who travels across the globe. The collection, as it is inspired from Delhi and is basically for the destination weddings, has that festive spirit,” added Anupama.
Apart from Anupama, there are other designers who have based their collections on regions from India. Ekta Jaipuria and Ruchira Kandhari from Ekru will present their collection Indian Kaleidoscope at the fashion week. Their Autumn/Winter line will present fabrics from different cities. “We have used Banarasi weaves, chanderi and other silks. Through our collection we have travelled across India and presented the weaves and embroidery that we are known for. We have been inspired by everything Indian, be it the culture, techniques, festivals, dance or music. There is jardozi, threadwork and rich golden weaves,” shared Ekta and added, “The colour palette is bright and festive and we haven’t used black, white or grey. Threadwork and motifs borrowed from traditional textiles have been given a twist by mixing and matching. There has been a generous use of sequins and pearls. The textiles used in the collection also reflect the same diversity as the colours and motifs used — matka for Bihar, chanderi from MP, chiffons and woven yardages along with borders from Benaras.”
The silhouettes are ethno-futuristic, “traditional Indian silhouettes have been contrasted with avant garde drapes. Traditional A-line and tent shapes have been merged with slim and restrained volume in the lower torso. The collection also has structured jackets, layered with kalidaar (panelled) inners and flared palazzos.”
Designer Kiran Uttam Ghosh this time moved away from India to come up with her collection that can be identified with the use of mirrors. She took notes from the old world Hanoi and 20th Century Saigon, Hong Kong, Beijing, Tokyo, Cambodia and Vietnam.
“The collection bears military influences and has metallic embellishments. Sharp shoulder style with brass, buttonhole detailing, curved and long slit cuffs, high collars and delicate interpretations are the highlights. Use of bright embroidery against muted background adds to the drama. Japanese inspiration is visible in the bright oriental flower motifs, Ikebana installation print and needle point embroidery,” said the designer.