Nestled in the serene hills of Kangra, Nurpur holds secrets waiting to be discovered. From the grandeur of an ancient fort to the quiet spirituality of Shri Brij Raj Swami Mandir, this small town offers a glimpse into a world where history and devotion converge nostalgic, writes ADITI SHARMA

The mere mention of “Nani gharchalein?” would fill my young heart with excitement. My mother’s response, “Nurpur,” stirred up an image of mystery and wonder. Nestled in the Kangra district, this small town became my summer haven, a place brimming with love, laughter, and endless curiosity. As a child, I cherished Nurpur for the simplest reasons: the warm embrace of my Nano, the escape from Delhi’s blistering heat, and the delicious treats she lovingly prepared.

As I grew older, curiosity began to tug at me. What was it about Nurpur that captivated me so deeply? Was it the majestic mountains towering over the town, or the refreshing, crisp air? Perhaps it was the simple contentment of the people, the authentic Dham meals enjoyed on leaf plates, or the genuine care showered on me by my masi. Maybe it was the pure joy of indulging in my favourite dishes cooked by my Nani’s hands.

One lazy afternoon, I complained to my mother, “There’s nowhere to explore in Nurpur.” My masi, always ready for adventure, suggested, “Kila chalein?” (Let’s go to the fort). To my surprise, Nurpur had a fort! How had I missed this hidden gem? Intrigued, I set out to discover its secrets.

Standing before the fort’s imposing walls, I couldn’t believe no one had ever mentioned it to me. Was it truly that obscure, or just as ordinary as a Delhi skyscraper? Over time, I began visiting the fort more often. Every time I gazed at the massive structure, seamlessly blending into the surrounding mountains, I felt I was uncovering something extraordinary.

One day, a sharp turn revealed a gateway, seemingly untouched by time, with two Ganeshas standing guard, their eyes following our every step. As I walked through the creaking gates, a sprawling courtyard filled with history lay before me. The ruins of the fort stood in silent witness, while a high school, built in 1928, occupied a portion of the space. There was no sign of any involvement from the Archaeological Survey of India.

In the centre stood a towering peepul tree, its ancient roots whispering stories of the past. To the left, a lake was cordoned off with barbed wire, with the fortifications visible beyond. As I wandered through Nurpur Fort, I became fascinated by the town’s rich history.

Founded in the 11th century by Raja Jhet Pal, Nurpur’s prominence peaked during the reign of Raja Basu (1580-1613), whose architectural genius is reflected in the fort’s grandeur. Originally known as Dhameri, the town was renamed Nurpur in honour of Queen Nur Jahan, who had once admired its beauty during a visit.

Until 1947, Nurpur was a princely state ruled by the Pathania clan. Among its legendary figures was Wazir Ram Singh, a young boy who dared to challenge the British Empire at the age of 16. Arrested and tortured, he sacrificed his life for his homeland’s honour at just 24 years old.

As I stood there, history seemed to envelop me, and a sense of serenity began to emerge. This feeling led me to Shri Brij Raj Swami Mandir, once the Diwan-e-Khaas, the royal court of Raja Jagat Singh. Legend has it that after witnessing what was believed to be a divine performance by Meera Bai near a Krishna temple in Chittorgarh, the Raja returned with an idol of Krishna, transforming his royal court into a temple dedicated to the deity.

Inside the temple, the black marble idol of Krishna glistened, said to be the same one Meera Bai had worshipped. The faded frescoes on the walls whispered tales of Krishna’s life, while the presence of Meera alongside Krishna added a unique spiritual depth.

As I concluded my journey, I realised that the true beauty of Nurpur lay not in its grandeur but in its quiet, unassuming corners. Nurpur had taught me to cherish the hidden treasures, those places that remain untouched by time, where spirituality and history intertwine. The Brij Raj Swami Mandir, with its sacred energy and the ethereal presence of Meera, had left an indelible mark on my heart. It was here, in this serene temple, that I truly felt at home-connected to Krishna, my family, and something far deeper.