With people becoming more cognisant of the fact that the garments’ industry is the second-highest environmental polluter, 2020 will take us back to the pre-Industrial Revolution production and consumption patterns, says craft and textile revivalist Madhu Jain
Fashion is not defined just by a one-off choice or what one wears to an event. It’s more about the everyday sartorial choices that we make. This year, besides the sea of animal prints on everything from jackets to pants, tops, handbags and footwear, athleisure scored big. From Bolly and Hollywood stars sporting leggings and yoga pants to men giving a thumbs up to their Lululemon ABC pants, comfort ruled 2019. I have always been a believer in easy-wear clothes that are fuss-free and this trend signalled a relaxing in the otherwise almost-draconian dress codes dictated by top-drawer design houses.
For 2020, I’d personally root for fashion that is more environmentally conscious. Slow fashion, which is focussed on revisiting design, production, and consumption patterns, including recycling of clothes through the simple expedient of reusing and refashioning one’s wardrobe, should become the norm, rather than the exception. Another reason that slow fashion gets my thumbs-up is that it follows the principles of fair treatment of producers, in this case, the weavers, as well as in causing the least damage to our planet.
With the advent of factory-based production post the industrial revolution, the concept of fast fashion was born. Production processes were speeded up, to churn out yardage after yardage of man-made, synthetic fabrics. Prices dropped, and consumption zoomed. Thus was born the “use-and-throw” concept. However, now that more and more people in the fashion world are cognisant of the fact that the garments industry is the second-highest environmental polluter, it is high time that we went back to the pre-industrial Revolution production and consumption patterns. Let us take inspiration from our 2,000 year old textiles tradition and legacy. What we urgently need to do is to go back to how our forefathers operated. At that time, mankind was in sync with nature and clothes were organic and plant-based. Each region had its own distinctive signature textile. Cotton, flax, hemp, jute, sheep wool and so on were the go-to choices. These textiles were derived from one’s natural surroundings and suited the region’s climate and aesthetics.
I’m happy to note that in recent years, sustainable fashion — where the entire production process, from sourcing natural yarns to manufacturing the end product — is gaining momentum.
My label was launched 33 years ago keeping the same values and principles in mind. Being ahead of the curve in environmental responsibility has been a hallmark of our textiles, notably our 100 per cent biodegradable bamboo clothing and, the first in the world, bamboo silk ikkat textile.
Additionally, it is important that companies in the clothing business close the loop between the production and recycling of clothes. In an ideal circular economy, there is a conscious effort to reduce over production, on the one hand, and reuse materials in production processes, on the other, thus diverting tons of textile waste from landfills.
As for fashion choices of 2020, remember that Indian colours work well on our skin tones. So there will be more of burnt orange, fuchsia, indigo, ivory, vermilion red, kesari yellow, rani pink, and the eternal favourite, white. With winters having well and truly set in, layering will be back and will keep the people toasty. Classic Indian jackets have a tremendous potential as they can be worn short, mid-thigh or long to suit one’s body type. Chogas, the long, loose garment of Turkish origin, if cut expertly, can be extremely slimming and can add height. In terms of motifs, if you like them bold, don’t shy away from vibrant weaves that offer a high contrast. But if you prefer something more subdued, a white-on-white on weave can be equally eye catching. And finally, keep the stoles handy. It is one of the most versatile fashion accessories which will continue to flatter any outfit. Team it up with a small clutch or an Indian potpie or batua, jewelled sandals or embroidered jutis, and you will be good to go.
Happy 2020!
