Zanskar to Ziro
Author- Sohini Sen
Publisher- Niyogi, Rs 995
Particularly for women readers, Sohini Sen’s travelogue Zanskar to Ziro is proof that barriers based in society’s understanding of gender and religion are never too difficult to break, writes SNEHA
Zanskar to Ziro is a travelogue by Sohini Sen. It describes her journey around the Himalayan belt along with her female companion. The book is divided into eight parts, each dedicated to the eight travel destinations — Jammu and Kashmir, Himachal Pradesh, Uttarakhand, Nepal, Sikkim, Bengal, Bhutan and Arunachal Pradesh. Her journey begins at the Suru valley in ladakh, where “Grey clouds loom over the towering crests and then gently dissolve in the crude rocky chalices”. There are many mythical tales and poems throughout the book. During one of her visits to Padum, Zanskar Valley, Sen shares some of these tales. They include notes from mythology as well as recorded history.
Sen travels to the line of Control, the Rangdum Monastery, the Zanskar Valley, Phyang, Korzog (a village by the lake), Korzok Monastery, Changpa, Nubra Valley, Thikse Monastery, Chang la, the village of Zingral, Changthang Plateau, Bodhgaya, the leh Palace, Kargil’s Buddha Rock Sculpture, etc . The book has informative accounts of each of Sen’s visits.
As the book progresses, she talks about her relationship with the locals and recounts all the mythical tales and stories narrated to her by the local guides and drivers. Her soulful accounts make you feel instantly drawn towards the mountains.
Zanskar to Ziro is refreshing and unique. It often sounds like a mountain memoir. It is an interesting mix of religion, introspection, myth, mysticism, realization, and humour. Sen’s writing is poetic and dreamlike, both at the same time. In parts where she mentions the dreamscapes (huge barren purple shaded mountains, telescopic views of the moon, luminous blue gulls, black horns, smooth stones, sunlight splintering into a million diamonds, multicoloured hues, holographic water currents, Chinese soldiers, disobedient sheep and nomadic people), one is instantly reminded of Gaston Bachelard’s “The Poetics of Space”. In it, he examines the space in both its reality and virtuality, by means of both thoughts and dreams.
It’s easy to connect with the essence of her travels. However, her heist to the hills isn’t limited to discovering scenic beauty alone. It is an all-encompassing account of splendid locations where she soulfully studies the history, geography, people and ecology of each region.
In her journey towards Himachal, she visits Tabo, Nako, Spiti Valley, Dhangkar, Kaza, and langza. At Kaza Monastery (13,500 ft), she surveys the biodiversity and then travels to Uttarakhand to the beautiful town of Chakrata with its cherry trees and blossoms. On her way to Shimla, she visits Rampur. There, she comes across the Padam Palace which turns out to be a delight with its rainbow-hued floral designs, plush sofas, a fireplace and an interesting royal encounter. The main attractions here are the Kinnaur Kailash, Shiva statues, the sparkling diamond Shivling, golden apples, lochawa-la-khang, tales of Rancher Zangpo, Kinnaur festivities and the meadows near chitkul. Unlike many travellers, Sen risks her way to Rakcham, which is away from the hustle bustle.
At Uttarakhand she visits the town of lakeshwara, which is dedicated to lord Shiva. She also visits Ruskin bond’s landour, Mussoorie. Its rich natural beauty, bright red cable cars, tabour cottages, and magnolias in bloom keep her busy there. The scenic landour bazaar, Sukhunda Devi Temple, Himalyan Oak, and Blue Pine only add to her pleasure. Next, she finds herself exploring the pilgrimage town of Rishikesh, the starting point from where the pilgrims move to Kedarnath, Badrinath, Gangotri and Garhwal. The Tunganath temple around the sparkling river sand and the lakshman Jhula captivate her. There is also the Peoria Taal, the village of Sari which has a moonlit path where one can see the glorious Saptarishi or Ursa major. Binsar, a British distortion for Binsheshwar or Visheshwara, is also covered. From tales of The Mahabharata to legends about lord Shiva, Sen’s exploration of the mountains makes one want to pack the bags and leave for a life-changing spiritual journey.
She describes her experiences at some of the most difficult terrains at high-altitude locations and shares the many inconsistencies that she encounters. Her ability to find humour in adverse times sets her writing apart. She writes about the real-life problems faced by solo women travellers across India. She opens up about the times she was afraid to make long journeys through secluded locations or when she went against her sensibilities and relied on her intuition. She speaks to the female readership who might want to take similar journeys across india and opens up their minds to all the possible pros and cons of travelling alone. She even gives them tips on how to be mountain safe, using lessons from her own experiences.
The book also contains accounts of the author’s past travels to Nepal and Bhutan. Sen emphasises that Nepal has a lot to offer. Reading about the fishtail mountain in Pokhara, also known as Machhapuchhare, giving out an ephemeral light blue shadow, casting a shadow on the clear waters of the Phewra lake reminds one of the legends of Mamba Muntu, Shun and Yemaya. India’s nagas and naagins are often compared to mermaids with human-like torsos and snake-like lower bodies. lord shiva’s Machhapuchhare peak feels the same, both visually and metaphorically. Nepal shares a special bond with Shiva and his various forms. Rich in Culture, history and art, Sen proves how Nepal is home to some of the most enchanting tales and spaces in the world. Starting with the famous Changu Narayan, a UNESCO-recognized world heritage site, Sen discovers the princely folklore of the half-town half-village of Bhaktapur, where despite the wisdom bestowed upon them by lord Shiva, the three kings of Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur fail to unite, leading to an invasion by Prithvi Narayan Shah. There are stories everywhere — how the king of Bhaktapur meets Shiva, underwater; the story of the bell near the Taleju temple; and the mystical stories of the Dattatreya Temple. The final few pages are marked with photographs of paper mache masks and baskets.
The book concludes with chapters on Sikkim, Bhutan, Gangtok, Bengal, and Darjeeling. One gets to read about Sen’s tryst with religion, customs, and life itself. Zanskar to Ziro transports the readers through conflicting emotions, it addresses issues of poverty, women safety, ecology and environment all together. Sen mentions some quintessential stops to the native villages and explores the Buddhist sensibilities of the natives.
There are photos of the Sikkimese dragon paintings, orchid sightings, and of her journey to the Rumtek Monastery, Gurudongmar lake, the Yumthang Valley of meadows and forests, which is filled with rhododendrons, of all varieties. Sen also describes her visit to Pelling, Ravangla. There, she finds a statue of Guru Padmasambhava at the old monastery. The journey ends at Aritar with ducks and swans picking their food and prayer flags fluttering all around.
My personal favourite chapters were the ones on Bengal and Bhutan. The few pages on Bengal, Darjeeling, Merek and Kurseong with photographs of huge dahlias, happy oranges, cherry blossoms and a huge statue of Jesus at the St Mary’s Grotto, Kurseong are very visually appealing and uplifting. It is honest, forthright, factual and dreamlike all at the same time.
Most noteworthy is Sen’s effort at preserving the sanctity of each one of these locations by being a mere observer of her environment. The book is personal, heartfelt, sincere, and certainly worthy of praise.
The reviewer is a literature enthusiast. The views expressed here are her own
